This sent the in-game perspective swinging about wildly, the car looping into the gravel trap, and us feeling more than a little queasy. The rear started to come around in the run through Rainey Curve and, during a quick stab of opposite-lock, our mitts managed to accidentally brush the top-two face buttons, which we'd assigned to the "look left" and "look right" commands. That's as far as they'll go not perfect, but a definite improvement.īack on the track we were hitting the right pedals, getting into the groove, and watching lap times creep down to where they should - and then it all went wrong. That can now be changed, and after a little work with a hex key we had the clutch moved about 1cm to the left and the brake 1cm to the right. Heading into the Andretti Hairpin we managed to accidentally stomp on the brake and clutch at the same time, as out of the box the G27 has those two separated by barely an inch. Shifts must be made lower in the RPM range, before the lights even clicked on, meaning this is just a pretty light show until you can specify at what revs the disco act begins. Sadly that didn't stop them from being all but useless for this particular car, which runs out of steam long before it runs into the rev limiter. This is a feature that not all games support yet, so we were glad to see it worked here and surprised that, despite their size, those lights were easy to spot even in a well-lit room. Pulling out of the pits the array of lights lit up in sequence and then started blinking when the Racer's poor 1.9 liter four-banger reached its limiter. If it's too strong - you can.To see what the G27 is worth we kicked the tires and lit the fires on our favorite race simulation of the moment, iRacing, loaded up the Spec Racer Ford (perfect thanks to its non-sequential transmission), and headed out onto Laguna Seca to tackle the corkscrew. I use 20% saturation tho, but if it's too weak, you can't do anything about it. I'm yet to try it, but believe me, it's better to have a strong brake pedal. Oh and my cousin bought a DFGT and he says his brake pedal is a LOT softer than mine. It's not that problematic to do it, but it does make your life easier when it's all on the wheel. To change fuel - you need to drive with 1 hand. Only disadvantage that the G27 has IMO is that i has only 6 buttons on the steering wheel. Just driving with it and not an old wheel with 2 springs for centering force took my laptimes a lot down. Which on F1 2011 it hurt my times a lot, but on F1 2012 it'd be simply impossible to play. Which brings me to the idea that it's not that reliable. I have a G27, it came with 2 years warranty and I had to replace it once due to pedal issue. You'll be happy with either in my opinion. Here in Australia, the G27 retails for about $310-$330, while the DFGT costs about $120.
However, the G27 is almost double in price. However, the G27 looks amazing quality, with great pedals and shifters. Like i've heard that the paddle shifters on the DFGT are too small and hard to reach, and the foot pedals dont look too great. I know that they both have their pros and cons (albeit the DFGT has far more cons relative to the G27): I really just want a good quality wheel for when Assetto Corsa comes out. I currently have enough money for the DFGT, but i was wondering if it is worth it to save for longer and get the G27. I'm tossing up between the Logitech G27 and the Driving Force GT.
I am currently using the Thrustmaster GT Ferrari Experience, (not the best wheel, i know, but i bought it just to get started, as it was cheap and has a good button layout) and it's starting to break down, the gear shifters have lost their *click*, and the wheel alignment pulls the car slightly to the left when it's held straight. Hey guys I am just looking for some advice on a new wheel.
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